Shellac Nails Promise Gel Results with Less Damage

As manicure trends come and go, there are a few trusted methods that remain popular — and Shellac is one of them. You've probably heard about it, and maybe your manicurist regularly asks if you want to try it, but what exactly is Shellac, and why does everyone rave about it? To answer these questions — and then some — we turned to nail specialist Julie Kandalec, who broke down everything there is to know about Shellac nails.

What Are Shellac Nails?

According to Kandalec, Shellac nails are created with a special in-salon gel nail polish, developed and patented by the brand Creative Nail Design (CND). However, calling all gel manicures "shellac" is not necessarily correct. To clarify, Shellac is the brand name of gel polish, not an umbrella term used for all gel nail polishes.

Shellac Nails vs. Gel Nails

Shellac nails and gel nails are often used interchangeably, with one significant difference. 

"Shellac is a formula specific to CND and contains more lacquer than other gel polishes," explained Kandalec. "Many other brands have a higher level of gel, which cures into a harder coating, making the removal process longer and causing more damage to natural nails. 

She continued, "The high level of lacquer in Shellac means that there is zero damage to natural nails, and you still get a hard, high-gloss finish that resists chips, nicks, and smudges."

Shellac nails are easier to remove as they don't require as much scraping and soaking in acetone as regular gel nails, which means less damage to your regular nails. The trade-off is they may be slightly more prone to chipping compared to gel, however, they still last up to two weeks — and much longer than regular nail polish. Also, a Shellac manicure isn't as thick or heavy as gel, so your nails will feel thinner or lighter.

Application Method

Similar to acrylics and other gel nail polishes, Shellac manicures are a multi-step process. 

"Getting a Shellac manicure involves applying a Shellac color polish over a Shellac base coat, followed by one of several Shellac topcoats," said Kandalec. 

These layers are then treated and cured with UV light to make them last longer, appear glossier, and prevent chipping.

Depending on the speed of your nail professional, a Shellac manicure can take anywhere from 45 minutes to one hour — but that's not all. You won't have to sit around for hours waiting for the Shellac to dry. The manicure is cured with a special LED lamp made exclusively for Shellac. Once the ultraviolet (UV) wavelengths from the lamp hit molecules in the shellac formula (called photoinitiators), they activate them; the formula then hardens, dries, and adheres the Shellac to natural nails within seconds.

How Long It Lasts

On average, Shellac will last at least two weeks if applied correctly, noted Kandalec. You can help extend the life of your Shellac by wearing gloves while doing household chores, but generally, the finish is very durable and rarely chips or peels. You'll know it's time to redo your Shellac when you start seeing a gap between your cuticle and the polish or the polish starts lifting.

Nail Damage

"The only way Shellac can damage your nails is if they are over-cured, under-cured, or removed improperly," said Kandalec. 

When compared to the products and chemicals used for acrylic nail extensions, Shellac isn't as harsh on natural nails. However, if you have brittle or damaged nails, it's best to wait until your nails are in a healthy condition before applying Shellac.

For both gel and Shellac manicures, you should avoid peeling off your nails at home. This can damage your nail bed. It is better to visit a salon or remove them properly by soaking them first (more on that below).

Risks and Safety

While there is nothing wrong with Shellac itself, it's the curing process that raises safety concerns. LED light lamps used to cure Shellac emit UV rays, and extended exposure to UV rays can have potential side effects, including premature aging of the skin, age spots, and skin cancer.

To protect your skin from UV rays, apply a good quality sunscreen of at least SPF 30 to your hands before getting Shellac. Alternatively, you can wear rubber gloves with the nail area cut out for ultimate protection.

Removal Method

When it comes to removing Shellac, normal acetone-free nail polish won't do the job. If you want to ensure your nails are free of damage, it's best to go to a salon and have a pro remove the Shellac for you.

"CND makes a fantastic removal product called Offly Fast, which is designed to remove Shellac without drying the skin or nails," said Kandalec. "When removing Shellac, there's no need to buff off the topcoat like you have to with other brands. Simply saturate a bit of cotton in Offly Fast and wrap the nails in foil. Depending on which Shellac topcoat was used, it will come off cleanly in five to 15 minutes."

VIDEO: Here's How to Remove Gel Polish at Home

Another popular removal method involves soaking cotton pads in pure acetone, placing them over the nails, and wrapping them in foil for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, the Shellac should lift off the nail bed. "Hydrate your nails before and after removing the Shellac," said Kandalec. "Also, make sure you use acetone in a well-ventilated area, keeping away from finished wood and paint."

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